Plaza Serrano in Palermo Soho

Walking is a great way to explore a new city. If you’re arrived in Buenos Aires and want to do some independent exploring of the famed Paris of the South, you’re sure to be overwhelmed by the limitless number of starting points. The most talked about neighborhood in Buenos Aires is most definitely Palermo and this trendy neighborhood is worth some independent exploring. Here is a suggested itinerary; no tour guide required.

Palermo comprises a few different neighborhoods, including Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood, and Palermo Viejo. Start in Palermo Soho, the more posh section, which is bordered by the avenues Santa Fe and Cordoba on the north and south, and Scalabrini Ortiz and Juan B. Justo on the east and west.

You can take a cab to Plaza Armenia on the corner of Malabia and Costa Rica. On weekends, there is a street fair on this green-lawned plaza and on weekdays the highlight are the small boutique stores that dot the neighborhood and are excellent for window shopping – as well as actual shopping! There are also some interesting bookstores worth peeking into. Honduras is a nice street and you walk northwest until you get to Plaza Serrano, at the intersection with Borges/Serrano. Be sure to scope out the restaurants along the way because you’re sure to want to come back to this area for dinner or dancing at one of the numerous clubs.

From Plaza Serrano stay on Honduras or walk 2 blocks down to Gorriti, also lined with shops and restaurants. Walk along either of these streets, cross the busy Av. Juan B. Justo, and you’ll be in the edgier but very hip Palermo Hollywood. Continue scoping out restaurants and also bars and clubs because this is where the nightlife is concentrated. You can walk up either Humboldt or Fitz Roy to get back to Av. Santa Fe and there are tons of cute little cafes to stop for refreshments along the way. Try a cortado – espresso with a few drops of milk – or treat yourself to a medialuna or an alfajor, the quintessential Argentine sweets.

Cross the busy Av. Santa Fe and continue north on Av. Int. Bullrich, a busy street with lots of car and foot traffic. After about 10 minutes, you’ll reach Av. Del Libertador, which marks the outer boundary of the Bosques the Palermo, an extensive park area where local go to walk, jog, rollerblade, and sun bathe. Here you can do a lap around the lake, visit the rose gardens, or relax on one of the benches to people-watch while.

At this point, you have some options. If you’re ready to call it quits, go back to your hotel and take a dip in the pool. If you’re tired but want to see more, hop in a cab and head over to Recoleta. If you’re just getting started, you can walk southeasterly along either Av. Del Libertador or Av. Alcorta, and after about 20 leisurely minutes you’ll reach Plaza Francia in Recoleta. Climb up the hill, there are usually artisan vendors whose crafts you can check out.

At the top of the hill is Recoleta Cemetary, which you can entry and wander the city-like maze of creepy vaults. The highlight is certainly the grave of Eva Peron. Once you’re done you can treat yourself to a well-deserved meal or drink in one of the many cafes or restaurants adjacent to the cemetery.

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